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The tour then passes through the dramatic landscape of Col. He was an atheist–a creature hitherto unknown in England–who boldly laughed to scorn both Protestant and Papist. Archived from the original on December 18, Even William Bourne, an innkeeper at Gravesend, who wrote a hand-book of applied mathematics, called it The Treasure for Travellers [63] and prefaced it with an exhortation in the style of Turler.
 
 

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[English Travellers of the Renaissance

 
 

Essex tells Rutland “your Lordship should rather go an hundred miles to speake with one wise man, than five miles to see a fair town.

There are signs that the learned men were not always willing to shine upon admiring strangers who burst in upon them. The renowned Doctor Zacharias Ursinus at Heidelberg marked on his doorway these words: “My friend, whoever you are, if you come here, please either go away again, or give me some help in my studies.

Truly, in few words: either much expense or much humbleness. If one had not the means to live with famous scholars, it was a good plan to take up lodgings with an eminent bookseller. For statesmen, advocates and other sorts of great men came to the shop, from whose talk much could be learned. By and by some occasion would arise for insinuating oneself into familarity and acquaintance with these personages, and perhaps, if some one of them, “non indoctus,” intended journeying to another city, he might allow you to attach yourself to him.

Of course, for observation and experience, there was no place so advantageous as the household of an ambassador, if one was fortunate enough to win an entry there. The English Ambassador in France generally had a burden of young gentlemen more or less under his care.

Sometimes they were lodged independently in Paris, but many belonged to his train, and had meat and drink for themselves, their servants and their horses, at the ambassador’s expense. Sir Amias Paulet’s Letter-Book of testifies that an ambassador’s cares were considerably augmented by writing reports to parents. Mr Speake is assured that “although I dwell far from Paris, yet I am not unacquainted with your sonne’s doing in Paris, and cannot commend him enough to you as well for his diligence in study as for his honest and quiet behaviour, and I dare assure you that you may be bold to trust him as well for the order of his expenses, as for his government otherwise.

Among these troublesome charges of Paulet’s was Francis Bacon. But to his father, the Lord Keeper, Paulet writes only that all is well, and that his son’s servant is particularly honest, diligent, discreet and faithful, and that Paulet is thankful for his “good and quiet behaviour in my house”–a fact which appears exceptional.

Sir Dudley Carleton, as Ambassador to Venice, was also pursued by ambitious fathers. For I perceive he means to make him a statesman, and is very well persuaded of him, If you can do it conveniently, it will be a favour; but I know what a business it is to have the breaking of such colts, and therefore will urge no more than may be to your liking. Besides gaining an apprenticeship in diplomacy, another advantage of travelling with an ambassador was the participation in ambassadorial immunities.

It might have fared ill with Sir Philip Sidney, in Paris at the time of the massacre of Saint Bartholomew, if he had not belonged to the household of Sir Francis Walsingham. Many other young men not so glorious to posterity, but quite as much so to their mothers, were saved then by the same means. When news of the massacre had reached England, Sir Thomas Smith wrote to Walsingham: “I am glad yet that in these tumults and bloody proscriptions you did escape, and the young gentlemen that be there with you Yet we hear say that he that was sent by my Lord Chamberlain to be schoolmaster to young Wharton, being come the day before, was then slain.

How fearful and careful the mothers and parents be here of such young gentlemen as be there, you may easily guess by my Lady Lane, who prayeth very earnestly that her son may be sent home with as much speed as may be. The dangers of travel were of a nature to alarm mothers. As well as Catholics, there were shipwrecks, pirates, and highway robbers. Moors and Turks lay waiting “in a little port under the hill,” to take passenger vessels that went between Rome and Naples.

A man dared not make any display of money for fear of being murdered in the night. It was a rare treat to have a bed to oneself. More probably the traveller was obliged to share it with a stranger of disagreeable appearance, if not of disposition.

The third Lord North was ill for life because of the immoderate quantities of hot treacle he consumed in Italy, to avoid the plague. But it was not really the low material dangers of small-pox, quartain ague, or robbers which troubled the Elizabethan.

Such considerations were beneath his heroical temper. Sir Edward Winsor, warned against the piratical Gulf of Malta, writes: “And for that it should not be said an Englishman to come so far to see Malta, and to have turned backe againe, I determined rather making my sepulker of that Golfe. So far we have not mentioned in our description of the books addressed to travellers any of the reminders of the trials of Ulysses, and dark warnings against the “Siren-songs of Italy. The traveller newly returned from foreign lands was a great butt for the satirists.

In Elizabethan times his bows and tremendous politeness, his close-fitting black clothes from Venice, his French accent, his finicky refinements, such as perfumes and pick-tooths, were highly offensive to the plain Englishman. One was always sure of an appreciative audience if he railed at the “disguised garments and desperate hats” of the “affectate traveller” how; his attire spoke French or Italian, and his gait cried “behold me!

Monsieur Mingo de Moustrap. Naught else have they profited by their travell, save learnt to distinguish of the true Burdeaux Grape, and know a cup of neate Gascoygne wine from wine of Orleance; yea, and peradventure this also, to esteeme of the poxe as a pimple, to weare a velvet patch on their face, and walke melancholy with their armes folded. The Frenchified traveller came in for a good share of satire, but darker things were said of the Italianate Englishman. He was an atheist–a creature hitherto unknown in England–who boldly laughed to scorn both Protestant and Papist.

He mocked the Pope, railed on Luther, and liked none, but only himself. Vanitie and vice and any licence to ill living in England was counted stale and rude unto them. It is likely that some of these accusations were true. Italy more than any other country charmed the Elizabethan Englishman, partly because the climate and the people and the look of things were so unlike his own grey home.

Particularly Venice enchanted him. The sun, the sea, the comely streets, “so clean that you can walk in a Silk Stockin and Sattin Slippes,” [] the tall palaces with marble balconies, and golden-haired women, the flagellants flogging themselves, the mountebanks, the Turks, the stately black-gowned gentlemen, were new and strange, and satisfied his sense of romance.

Besides, the University of Padua was still one of the greatest universities in Europe. Students from all nations crowded to it. William Thomas describes the “infinite resorte of all nacions that continually is seen there. And I thinke verilie, that in one region of all the worlde againe, are not halfe so many straungers as in Italie; specially of gentilmen, whose resorte thither is principallie under pretence of studie This last wynter living in Padoa, with diligent serche I learned, that the noumbre of scholers there was little lesse than fiftene hundreth; whereof I dare saie, a thousande at the lest were gentilmen.

The life of a student at Padua was much livelier than the monastic seclusion of an English university. He need not attend many lectures, for, as Thomas Hoby explains, after a scholar has been elected by the rectors, “He is by his scholarship bound to no lectures, nor nothing elles but what he lyst himselfe to go to.

Then, too, the scholar diversified his labours by excursions to Venice, in one of those passenger boats which plied daily from Padua, of which was said “that the boat shall bee drowned, when it carries neither Monke, nor Student, nor Curtesan In the renowned freedom of that city where “no man marketh anothers dooynges, or meddleth with another mans livyng,” [] it was no wonder if a young man fresh from an English university and away from those who knew him, was sometimes “enticed by lewd persons:” and, once having lost his innocence, outdid even the students of Padua.

For, as Greene says, “as our wits be as ripe as any, so our willes are more ready than they all, to put into effect any of their licentious abuses. Hence the warnings against Circes by even those authors most loud in praise of travel. Lipsius bids his noble pupil beware of Italian women: ” It was necessary also to warn the traveller against those more harmless sins which we have already mentioned: against an arrogant bearing on his return to his native land, or a vanity which prompted him at all times to show that he had been abroad, and was not like the common herd.

Perhaps it was an intellectual affectation of atheism or a cultivated taste for Machiavelli with which he was inclined to startle his old-fashioned countrymen.

No doubt there was in the returned traveller a certain degree of condescension which made him disagreeable–especially if he happened to be a proud and insolent courtier, who attracted the Queen’s notice by his sharpened wits and novelties of discourse, or if he were a vain boy of the sort that cumbered the streets of London with their rufflings and struttings. In making surmises as to whom Ascham had in his mind’s eye when he said that he knew men who came back from Italy with “less learning and worse manners,” I guessed that one might be Arthur Hall, the first translator of Homer into English.

Hall was a promising Grecian at Cambridge, and began his translation with Ascham’s encouragement. It would have irritated Ascham to have a member of St John’s throw over his task and his degree to go gadding. Certainly Hall’s after life bore out Ascham’s forebodings as to the value of foreign travel. On his return he spent a notorious existence in London until the consequences of a tavern brawl turned him out of Parliament.

I might dwell for a moment on Hall’s curious account of this latter affair, because it is one of the few utterances we have by an acknowledged Italianate Englishman–of a certain sort.

The humorists throw a good deal of light on such “yong Jyntelmen. Also spending more tyme in sportes, and following the same, than is any way commendable, and the lesse, bycause, I warrant you, the summes be great are dealte for.

This terrible person, on the 16th of December , at Lothbury, in London, at a table of twelve pence a meal, supped with some merchants and a certain Melchisedech Mallerie.

Dice were thrown on the board, and in the course of play Mallerie “gave the lye with harde wordes in heate to one of the players. Here Etna smoked, daggers were a-drawing But a certain Master Richard Drake, attending on my Lord of Leicester, took pains first to warn Hall to take heed of Mallerie at play, and then to tell Mallerie that Hall said he used “lewde practices at cards.

He said he was patient because he was bound to keep the peace for dark disturbances in the past. Mallerie said it was because he was a coward. Mallerie continued to say so for months, until before a crowd of gentlemen at the “ordinary” of one Wormes, his taunts were so unbearable that Hall crept up behind him and tried to stab him in the back. There was a general scuffle, some one held down Hall, the house grew full in a moment with Lord Zouche, gentlemen, and others, while “Mallerie with a great shreke ranne with all speede out of the doores, up a paire of stayres, and there aloft used most harde wordes againste Mr Hall.

Hall, who had cut himself–and nobody else–nursed his wound indoors for some days, during which time friends brought word that Mallerie would “shewe him an Italian tricke, intending thereby to do him some secret and unlooked for mischief. Business called him, he tells the reader. There was no ground whatever for Mallerie to say he fled in disguise.

After six months, he ventured to return to London and be gay again. He dined at “James Lumelies–the son, as it is said, of old M. Dominicke, born at Genoa, of the losse of whose nose there goes divers tales,”–and coming by a familiar gaming-house on his way back to his lodgings, he “fell to with the rest.

But there is no peace for him. In comes Mallerie–and with insufferably haughty gait and countenance, brushes by. Hall tries a pleasant saunter around Poules with his friend Master Woodhouse: “comes Mallerie again, passing twice or thrice by Hall, with great lookes and extraordinary rubbing him on the elbowes, and spurning three or four times a Spaniel of Mr Woodhouses following his master and Master Hall.

We will not follow the narrative through the subsequent lawsuit brought by Mallerie against Hall’s servants, the trial presided over by Recorder Fleetwood, the death of Mallerie, who “departed well leanyng to the olde Father of Rome, a dad whome I have heard some say Mr Hall doth not hate” or Hall’s subsequent expulsion from Parliament. This is enough to show the sort of harmless, vain braggarts some of these “Italianates” were, and how easily they acquired the reputation of being desperate fellows.

Mallerie’s lawyer at the trial charged Hall with “following the revenge with an Italian minde learned at Rome. Acworth had lived abroad during Mary’s reign, studying civil law in France and Italy.

When Elizabeth came to the throne he was elected public orator of the University of Cambridge, but through being idle, dissolute, and a drunkard, he lost all his preferments in England. It was then that the Duke bitterly dubbed him an “Italianfyd Inglyschemane,” equal in faithlessness to “a schamlesse Scote”; [] i.

Edward de Vere, seventeenth Earl of Oxford, famous for his rude behaviour to Sir Philip Sidney, whom he subsequently tried to dispatch with hired assassins after the Italian manner, [] might well have been one of the rising generation of courtiers whom Ascham so deplored.

In Ascham’s lifetime he was already a conspicuous gallant, and by , at the age of twenty-two, he was the court favourite. The friends of the Earl of Rutland, keeping him informed of the news while he was fulfilling in Paris those heavy duties of observation which Cecil mapped out for him, announce that “There is no man of life and agility in every respect in Court, but the Earl of Oxford.

At the very time when the Queen “delighted more in his personage and his dancing and valiantness than any other,” [] Oxford betook himself to Flanders–without licence.

Though his father-in-law Burghley had him brought back to the indignant Elizabeth, the next year he set forth again and made for Italy. From Siena, on January 3rd, , he writes to ask Burghley to sell some of his land so as to disburden him of his debts, and in reply to some warning of Burghley’s that his affairs in England need attention, replies that since his troubles are so many at home, he has resolved to continue his travels.

In another letter also [] he assures Cecil that he means to acquaint himself with Sturmius–that educator of youth so highly approved of by Ascham. He did not know this till his late return to Venice. He has been grieved with a fever. The letter concludes with a mention that he has taken up of Baptista Nigrone crowns, which he desires repaid from the sale of his lands, and a curt thanks for the news of his wife’s delivery.

From Paris, after an interval of six months, he declares his pleasure at the news of his being a father, but makes no offer to return to England. Rather he intends to go back to Venice. He “may pass two or three months in seeing Constantinople and some part of Greece.

However, Burghley says, “I wrote to Pariss to hym to hasten hym homewards,” and in April , he landed at Dover in an exceedingly sulky mood. He refused to see his wife, and told Burghley he might take his daughter into his own house again, for he was resolved “to be rid of the cumber. Certain results of his travel were pleasing to his sovereign, however. For he was the first person to import to England “gloves, sweete bagges, a perfumed leather Jerkin, and other pleasant things.

Arthur Hall and the Earl of Oxford will perhaps serve to show that many young men pointed out as having returned the worse for their liberty to see the world, were those who would have been very poor props to society had they never left their native land. Weak and vain striplings of entirely English growth escaped the comment attracted by a sinner with strange garments and new oaths. For in those garments themselves lay an offence to the commonwealth.

I need only refer to the well-known jealousy, among English haberdashers and milliners, of the superior craft of Continental workmen, behind whom English weavers lagged: Henry the Eighth used to have to wear hose cut out of pieces of cloth–on that leg of which he was so proud–unless “by great chance there came a paire of Spanish silke stockings from Spaine.

Wrapped up with economic acrimony there was a good deal of the hearty old English hatred of a Frenchman, or a Spaniard, or any foreigner, which was always finding expression. Either it was the ‘prentices who rioted, or some rude fellow who pulls up beside the carriage of the Spanish ambassador, snatches the ambassador’s hat off his head and “rides away with it up the street as fast as he could, the people going on and laughing at it,” [] or it was the Smithfield officers deputed to cut swords of improper length, who pounced upon the French ambassador because his sword was longer than the statutes allowed.

Her Majestie is greatly offended with the officers, in that they wanted judgement. There was also a dislike of the whole new order of things, of which the fashion for travel was only a phase: dislike of the new courtier who scorned to live in the country, surrounded by a huge band of family servants, but preferred to occupy small lodgings in London, and join in the pleasures of metropolitan life.

The theatre, the gambling resorts, the fence-schools, the bowling alleys, and above all the glamor of the streets and the crowd were charms only beginning to assert themselves in Elizabethan England. But the popular voice was loud against the nobles who preferred to spend their money on such things instead of on improving their estates, and who squandered on fine clothes what used to be spent on roast beef for their retainers. Greene’s Quip for an Upstart Courtier parodies what the new and refined Englishman would say Time hath set a new edge on gentlemen’s humours and they show them as they should be: not like gluttons as their fathers did, in chines of beefe and almes to the poore, but in velvets, satins, cloth of gold, pearle: yea, pearle lace, which scarce Caligula wore on his birthday.

On the whole, we may say that the objections to foreign travel rose from a variety of motives. Ascham doubtless knew genuine cases of young men spoiled by too much liberty, and there were surely many obnoxious boys who bragged of their “foreign vices. Lastly, there was another element in the protest against foreign travel, which grew more and more strong towards the end of the reign of Elizabeth and the beginning of James the First’s, the hatred of Italy as the stronghold of the Roman Catholic Church, and fear of the Inquisition.

Warnings against the Jesuits are a striking feature of the next group of Instructions to Travellers. The quickening of animosity between Protestants and Catholics in the last quarter of the sixteenth century had a good deal to do with the censure of travel which we have been describing. In their fear and hatred of the Roman Catholic countries, Englishmen viewed with alarm any attractions, intellectual or otherwise, which the Continent had for their sons. They had rather have them forego the advantages of a liberal education than run the risk of falling body and soul into the hands of the Papists.

The intense, fierce patriotism which flared up to meet the Spanish Armada almost blighted the genial impulse of travel for study’s sake. It divided the nations again, and took away the common admiration for Italy which had made the young men of the north all rush together there.

We can no longer imagine an Englishman like Selling coming to the great Politian at Bologna and grappling him to his heart–“arctissima sibi conjunxit amicum familiaritate,” [] as the warm humanistic phrase has it. In the seventeenth century Politian would be a “contagious Papist,” using his charm to convert men to Romanism, and Selling would be a “true son of the Church of England,” railing at Politian for his “debauch’d and Popish principles.

They had scarcely started before the Reformation called it a place of abomination. Lord Burghley, who in Elizabeth’s early days had been so bent on a foreign education for his eldest son, had drilled him in languages and pressed him to go to Italy, [] at the end of his long life left instructions to his children: “Suffer not thy sonnes to pass the Alps, for they shall learn nothing there but pride, blasphemy, and atheism.

And if by travel they get a few broken languages, that shall profit them nothing more than to have one meat served on divers dishes. The mother of Francis Bacon affords a good example of the Puritan distrust of going “beyond seas.

All through his prolonged stay abroad she chafed and fretted, while Anthony perversely remained in France, gaining that acquaintance with valuable correspondents, spies, and intelligencers which later made him one of the greatest authorities in England on continental politics. He had a confidential servant, a Catholic named Lawson, whom he sent over to deliver some important secret news to Lord Burghley. Lady Bacon, in her fear lest Lawson’s company should pervert her son’s religion and morals, had the man arrested and detained in England.

His anxious master sent another man to plead with his mother for Lawson’s release; but in vain. The letter of this messenger to Anthony will serve to show the vehemence of anti-Catholic feelings in a British matron in She cannot abide to hear of you, as she saith, nor of the other especially, and told me plainly she should be the worse this month for my coming without you, and axed me why you could not have come from thence as well as myself.

It was not only a general hatred of Roman Catholics which made staunch Protestants anxious to detain their sons from foreign travel towards the end of Elizabeth’s reign, but a very lively and well-grounded fear of the Inquisition and the Jesuits. When England was at war with Spain, any Englishman caught on Spanish territory was a lawful prisoner for ransom; and since Spanish territory meant Sicily, Naples, and Milan, and Rome was the territory of Spain’s patron, the Pope, Italy was far from safe for Englishmen and Protestants.

Even when peace with Spain was declared, on the accession of James I. There is a letter, for instance, to Salisbury from one of his agents on the Continent, concerning overtures made to him by the Pope’s nuncio, to decoy some Englishman of note–young Lord Roos or Lord Cranborne–into papal dominions, where he might be seized and detained, in hope of procuring a release for Baldwin the Jesuit.

Send me, I pray you, a note of the chief towns to be passed through. I care not for seeing places, but to go thither the shortest and safest way. Bedell’s fears were not without reason, for the very next year occurred the arrest of the unfortunate Mr Mole, whose case was one of the sensations of the day. Fuller, in his Church History , under the year , records how He was appointed by Thomas, Earl of Exeter, to be Governour in Travail to his Grandchilde, the Lord Ross, undertaking the charge with much reluctance as a presage of ill successe and with a profession, and a resolution not to passe the Alpes.

In vain doth Mr Molle dissuade him, grown now so wilfull, he would in some sort govern his Governour. What should this good man doe? To leave him were to desert his trust, to goe along with him were to endanger his own life. At last his affections to his charge so prevailed against his judgment, that unwillingly willing he went with him. Now, at what rate soever they rode to Rome, the fame of their coming came thither before them; so that no sooner had they entered their Inne, but Officers asked for Mr Molle, took and carried him to the Inquisition-House, where he remained a prisoner whilest the Lord Ross was daily feasted, favoured, entertained: so that some will not stick to say, That here he changed no Religion for a bad one.

No threats could persuade Mr Mole to renounce his heresy, and though many attempts were made to exchange him for some Jesuits caught in England, he lay for thirty years in the prison of the Inquisition, and died there, at the age of eighty-one. Cars are usually residents only. For zones where there congestion-charge scheme Ecopass supplied with a full tank of petrol, is a time-limit but no parking fee, in an attempt to reduce traffic and it is wise to return them refilled, Italian cars including rental cars come volumes and pollution.

Other towns as if not, you will be charged at an equipped with a mini clock dial that among them Genoa and Turin inflated rate for filling the tank. All the major international car rental 10 per cent of the population has When parking, do not leave any companies such as Avis, Budget, a motorbike or scooter. Two-wheel valuables in your car and certainly Hertz and Europcar operate in Italy. Virtually all Italian It is worth comparing rates online the labyrinth of streets that forms the cars have removable car radios, before you decide which to use, as centre of many cities, and you will which Italian drivers invariably take well as investigating any deals offered usually find somewhere free to with them when they park.

Secure, by your airline; low-cost airlines are park, even in the busiest metropolis. Away from the city, Italy is an but hotels can offer guest discounts. You could compare the deals you exhilarating country to traverse by Disabled drivers displaying the have found yourself with those of bike, with roads twisting up and blue disabled badge can park in a reliable car-rental broker such as down mountains and along dramatic designated disabled spaces.

Holiday Autos or AutoEurope. Note that if caravan or trailer is 50 kmph 30 mph you are on a motorbike or scooter, a in built-up areas; 70 kmph 45 mph CAR HIRE helmet is compulsory for both driver on secondary and main roads; and AutoEurope and pillion a rule enforced with 80 kmph 50 mph on motorways. The best maps for long journeys Motorcycles must use dipped head- and overall planning are the AA Road Budget www. Regional maps from www. Local they will not plot every country lane Holiday Autos councils have established designated and unsurfaced track.

Touring Club www. These are rarely sold is becoming increasingly common. Blurent www. Some www. In peak season, you will need to If you are intending to use a sat nav book places in advance at camp application on your mobile phone, sites. In quieter areas, free camping check that the software has on-board is on the increase, but it is illegal.

Where to Stay Italy has some of the most memorable places to stay in Europe, ranging from grand hotels oozing belle poque glamour to boutique hotels on the cutting edge of contemporary design. Some boutique hotels are opportunity to experience exceptional run by hospitality-trade professionals, Agriturismi Italian hospitality, whether the setting others by passionate newcomers, The agriturismo scheme began in is a couple of rooms in a simple often from the worlds of architecture the s to enable farmers and city apartment or a glamorous suite and design.

Visitors will find plenty landowners to boost falling revenues in a historic palace. The BB Planet of boutique hotels recommended by renting out converted farm website is a useful online resource.

In the best-run places, Italian hotels are given an official produce, others have full-blown breakfasts can be fantastic affairs, with rating of between 1 and 5 stars restaurants. Many offer activities home-made jams and cakes, fresh though the 7-star Town House Galleria such as horse riding, and some have croissants and fruit; at the other end of has recently opened in Milan: www.

Note that the with swimming pools, tennis courts a cellophane-packed croissant and a number of stars awarded to a hotel and mountain bikes to rent. This means that the star in coastal and lake resorts often an arrangement with a local caf. They are usually open www. For the tentless, Official agriturismo website Facilities and Prices sites often have bungalows, sleeping www. Single rooms are rare, and you If you want to focus on a single region, www.

Bathrooms, for a week or two. The widest choice can Trip Advisor your sole use. In the cheapest hotels, be found in Tuscany and Umbria, but www. The more expen- properties in exquisitely restored Italian camp sites www. The following price bands are based and surroundings. Weekend rates Castelmuzio Below Hotel Ristorante Locanda expensive over in city hotels are often great value. Where to Eat One of the great pleasures of travelling in Northern and Central Italy is exploring the rich culinary and wine-making traditions of each region.

Every drive in this guide provides the opportunity to sample regional specialities, whether it be the pesto and sh dishes of Liguria, the trues, hams and salamis of Umbria or the cheeses, dumplings and smoked sausages of the Alto-Adige. Below is a basic guide to the typical kinds of eating places you will nd in Italy, from simple pizzerias to sophisticated gourmet haunts.

Practical Information on a separate dish alongside. Finally, Above Sign for a pizza restaurant in Riva del Perhaps the most typical Italian there is the dolce, or dessert. House Garda, near Lake Garda breakfast is a croissant cornetto and wines can vary in quality, but a coffee at a bar. The coffee comes in quarto quarter , mezzo half or more basic, homely sort of place; the a staggering variety of modes, from 1-litre caraffa carafe will always menu was often scrawled on a short and sharp un caff to long and be at the very least drinkable.

An espresso In cities and major towns, credit newsprint to cover the tables and on diluted with hot water to make it cards are widely accepted less so which to write the bill. An osteria was resemble American filter coffee is an in smaller places and in the country, an unpretentious country or city Americano; an espresso with a blob where it is advisable to carry cash.

Tax and service must be included meat with some cheese, and maybe Italians wouldnt dream of having a in the bill by law, and a small cover a simple pasta dish to accompany a frothy cappucino at any time of day charge coperto is usually added.

However, that other than breakfast. In summer, there Tipping is becoming more common; has all changed, and these days the is usually iced coffee caff freddo. Ristorante is now a youll find a few restaurants that keep fit the bill. Men like women will be neutral, generic term that could apply their kitchens open right through to expected to wear tops during meals, to anything from a Michelin-starred dinner, which is usually served from even at beachside places.

Only in gem to a seaside joint where mass- pm. Most restaurants are the most exclusive restaurants is dress catering is the order of the day; and closed one day a week and display formal, and men required to wear a although there are trattorie and osterie their giorno di chiusura closed day in tie and jacket.

Children are welcome that have existed for half a century, the window, although in the summer, in restaurants, even late at night. Meals begin with an antipasto, Ristoranti, Trattorie, Osterie Trattoria often implies an interest in or starter, followed by the primo, These are the three main types of reviving and reinventing traditional or first course most commonly restaurants in Italy, and until some dishes; whereas osteria tends to pasta, risotto or, in winter, a minestra years ago they were quite distinct.

The secondo is the meat A ristorante was a proper restaurant, the very best primary ingredients and fish course, with the contorno with linen tablecloths and waiters and wines, as promoted, for instance, vegetables or salad usually served in uniform.

A trattoria was usually a by the Slow Food movement. Where to Eat You have more a delicatessen alimentari where you on a three-course meal for one, chance of striking gold if you go to can buy delicacies such as rosemary- including a half-bottle of house wine, a pizzeria with a wood-burning oven spiked hams, mature gorgonzola, cover charge, tax and service: forno a legna , from which the pizzas speck and olives; a bakery il forno ; inexpensive under 25 should emerge bubbling, scorched and a greengrocer fruttivendolo moderate and blistered.

Pizzerias are almost or market mercato packed with expensive over 45 always informal places, and pizza is seasonal fruits and vegetables. The classic accompaniment markets also bring together local to pizza is a cold draught beer.

Cafs and Bars There are often stalls with specialities At one end of the spectrum are grand from the south of Italy too capers, cafs with chandelier-lit interiors and sun-dried tomatoes, mozzarella di terraces fringing some of the most bufala and spicy salami which add spectacular piazzas in Italy; at the other, an exotic touch.

Less romantically, modest local bars with s colour Italian supermarkets, including schemes, steaming coffee machines chains like Esselunga and Una, stock and dusty plastic flowers. These very good-quality fresh produce as unpretentious neighbourhood bars well as freshly baked bread.

Some have a few tables outside Chiavenna steak or a freshly caught Sansepolcro market Below left Fruits on a for a more leisurely breakfast or apritif, red mullet. Around the lakes you will Bolzano market stall Below middle Al fresco though you should find time at least find free beaches spiaggia pubblica dining in Orvieto Below middle right once on your trip to dawdle over a where you can settle on a grassy Subterranean wine vault, Canonica a Cerreto, Campari soda and olives in a traditional patch by the lakeside and enjoy Chianti Below This bakery in San Casciano pavement caf watching life pass by.

In the Shadow of the Alps Turin to Castello di Rivoli Highlights Royal Turin Admire the sweeping boulevards, elegant hunting lodges and pleasure palaces of this aristocratic city Gourmet Piedmont Taste the regions famous mushrooms and truffles and sample the rich, French-influenced cuisine Strategic mountain passes Walk in the footsteps of some of historys greatest armies Hannibal, Augustus and Napoleon all marched through the Alps near Aosta Paradise park Explore Italys first national park, the Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, and see ibex, chamois, marmots and magnificent golden eagles.

In the Shadow of the Alps The rolling hillsides around Turin produce some of the worlds most delectable wines and prized gourmet delicacies, such as white true and various kinds of cheese. Encircled by palaces and former hunting lodges and set against the amphitheatre of the snow-capped Alps, Aiguille du Midi Ferret.

Turin is well-endowed with beautiful architecture and cutting-edge m Arnouvaz. The tour then passes through the dramatic landscape of Col.

Colle d. La Thuile Sarre S. Bernardo ch e M. Paramont en Introd. Hike in the mountains and then take a chairlift or cable car from Courmayeur or La Thuile up to the highest peaks in Europe. Number of days: 34, allowing half Grand Combin a day to explore Turin. Stretches M. Emilius of the route between Pr-Saint-Didier m M. Val d. Almese Tor. Airasca Carignano find a host of buildings to explore Villa- stellone in Turin with the works of Baroque architect Juvarra, and impressive museums and churches.

Outdoor enthusiasts can take the mountain air in historic Aosta. For full details, see p Its Museo Torino. Park under Piazza Vittorio. Indeed, it was the first capital and has a garden for al fresco meals.

Today, it is the countrys design and Via Nino Costa 4, ; ; contemporary art capital. And, for a taste of the dolce vita, Turin is www. Des Artistes moderate Centrally located near the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, this boho chic hotel has just 22 A three-hour walking tour of cinema with props and classic film pleasant and well-appointed rooms and From Piazza Vittorio Veneto, clips, including the car chase in The offers good, professional service. Take the glass lift to ; www.

Next, old Fiat factory designed by Renzo Antonelliana 1. Topped by turn right and then left into Piano , this hotel has minimalist airy a m ft spire, this the wide Corso San Maurizio rooms, glass walls and large bathrooms. Continue through the lent Museo Nazionale del Madonna and child, park to the far corner and Below clockwise from top left The grand Cinema closed Mon.

The opulent exterior of the Palazza Madama in the Piazza production capital of the world interior is graced with chinoiserie, Castello; dome of the Chiesa di San Lorenzo The museum re-creates the story gold, velvet and tapestries.

A MA Chiesa di. GLI UR. TEB E. Two tombs of over 50 members of the LOsteria del Corso inexpensive of Turins most atmospheric cafs are Savoy family. Duke Vittorio Amedeo Simple, good family-run fish place.

The funicular ride 4 open daily. The interior of this from Sassi station just below up to Cera Una Volta moderate church is a Baroque fantasy of marble, the basilica is always popular with chil- Welcoming restaurant offering regional specialities and an excellent menu stucco and gilding. It also has a dren. A large plaque in the grounds degustazione.

Corso Vittorio replica of the Sindone di Torino Turin commemorates the tragic loss of the Emanuele ll 41, ; ; Shroud , believed to be the sheet in Grande Torino football team, whose www. The Museo del Grande Torino Ristorante del Cambio expensive Quadrilatero 5 the gridded area displays the teams memorabilia.

Turins most famous restaurant serves authentic bollito misto a mix of that recalls the old Roman settle- Head west to pick up SS11 then cooked meats. Booking essential. The cobbled streets are full SP Castello take SR to Biella. The collection includes papyri, a black statue of Ramses ll 13th century BC , sarcophagi and the tomb of Kha and Merit c. At the heart of Textile Valley, Biella Go north, signposted Champdepraz, is famous as a major centre for high- turn right at SR6, left at SS26 towards quality wool and yarn production, Aosta and follow signs to Fnis.

More than 50 Local cuisine matches robust flavours factory outlets line the industrial with French flair, reflecting the areas approach roads many of which are relationship with the House of on the SS look for spaccio on Savoy. The woods, especially near signs, meaning outlets. There are Alba, are truffle- and mushroom- also outlets in Biella see right.

The rich and any dish with salsa di tartufi bianchi will be delicious. Bagna town has a compact, attractive cauda is a warm, aromatic dip made centre and highlights include the with oil, anchovies, garlic and cream. Renaissance basilica and cloister of Blue gorgonzola is the best- known St Sebastian, with lovely frescoes cheese dolce creamy or piccante inside. A funicular goes up to the crumbly , but look for soft cheeses, beautiful medieval village of Piazzo.

Fork right on SP73, then with Albas white truffles. Set on such as Il Melograno closed Wed. AOSTA il melograno of iron. Much restored Its origins date to the 13th century, Hotel Europe moderate over the years, the palace has vivid but what is visible today is largely Set in the heart of the old town, this frescoes of 15th-century street life, the creation of Aimone de comfortable hotel albergo is both elegant and welcoming. Its 63 rooms along with period furniture and arti- Challant, who belonged to a noble are decorated to a high standard and facts.

Nearby, the village Champdepraz family linked to the Savoys. The castle there is a pleasant restaurant. The inner Agriturismo lArc en Ciel inexpensive This working farm has five pleasingly furnished rooms.

Home-grown produce is served in the fine restaurant. Extremely good value. Its 22 rooms are clad in pine and there is a warming, wood-burning oven in the restaurant. Via Laydetr 7, ; ; www. There is also a small museum of local furniture inside. There is a car park at Piazza Arco dAugusto. To south to Cogne. The chef, Alfio Fascendini, bell tower and an elegant cloister. Today, it Via Tourneuve 4, ; ; purchased from cuckoo clocks to is home to the endangered ibex, www. Maps of the footpaths and Lou Ressignon to the city.

Inside, on the right, lie routes are available from the visitor inexpensivemoderate the remains of a Roman theatre. Just information centre Via Bourgeois 34, Well-established family-run inn specializing in authentic Valdostano to the north, accessed through the ; A path meanders specialities.

At weekends, music Convento di San Giuseppe, is the south to Valnontey, where the complements feasting. Also has rooms. Amphitheatre open daily. The best time to see Splendid little restaurant with a warm, art treasures from the area in the these is from late-June to mid-July.

Visitors can also buy some excellent produce in the shop. OctMar: closed Mon. Next to the left on to the SS This road becomes Rue Grand Paradis 21, ; Duomo is the Roman Forum with a the Avenue du Gant Champex ; reduced hours in low season supporting arcade cryptoporticus.

While there are many outlets just outside town, within Biella itself is Fratelli Cerruti Via Cernaia 40; open daily , selling men and womens classic clothes with 30 per cent plus discount, and sportswear specialist Fila Via Cesare Battisti 28; closed Mon mornings. Nearby La Thuile reached via the SS26; closed in winter was once a mining area and is now a picturesque skiing and hiking town, and more of a family resort than chic Courmayeur.

In summer chairlifts allow access to heights of 2, m 7, ft for some spectacular walking and trekking. Take the SS26, entering France on the D The main hub, Via Roma, pass in the Alps on the French-Italian There is a large car park by the cable is traffic free and full of designer shops border.

It was an important invasion car to Plan Checrouit, on the southern and gourmet gems. The Museo route and Napoleon I built a road edge of town. Alpino Duca degli Abruzzi Piazza there in It is also believed by Visitor Information Abb Henry 2; ; closed Wed some to have been Hannibals pass Piazzale Monte Bianco 8, ; morning tells tales of dramatic moun- when he marched his army and ; www.

Enter Italy on. There are 33 the picturesque town Pr-Saint-Didier w Exilles individually designed rooms, together is famous for its warm thermal waters. The restaurant is noted for its excellent food and service. There is a splendid fort. Exilles Fort Via degli ; www. The waters are said to valley, but also a great example of this prestigious hotel is noted for its have detoxifying, toning and anti- military architecture. A fort has kept charm and good service. There is a inflammatory properties.

There is also a very pleasant restaurant. Via Roma 87, ; ; www. France and Italy since the 12th century, although what is visible today is mainly from the 19th century. It is said that from , the Man in the Iron Mask, a prisoner whose face and identity remain a mystery to this day, was incarcerated within these walls.

Many have theorized as to his identity, most famously Alexandre Dumas, who postulated that he was Louis XIVs identical twin. It is an imposing Baroque Head back northeast on the SS The Combal. Established in , it draws remarkably well-preserved marble customers from all over the area.

In the medieval Michelin-starred restaurant in the historic centre, the Romanesque Museo dArte Contemporanea, featuring classic Piedmont dishes, Cattedrale di San Giusto open daily , but with very creative twists dating from the 12th century, has a variant of molecular gastronomy lovely frescoes and a fine campanile. This is where full of gourmet delights. Then head out to the grand fairytale castle in Fnis 6.

Next, those based in Aosta, the amazing hunting lodge Palazzina di Caccia di head to Cogne 8 to visit the Parco mountain scenery is easy to explore. Stupinigi 1 and the magnificent Nazionale del Gran Paradiso for an Castello di Rivoli r filled with invigorating walk among breath- Baroque architecture tour thought-provoking modern art. Aosta is located on the SS In the Land of the Truffle Barbaresco to Cuneo Highlights Kings of wine Taste the nectar of the gods made from the Barolo and Barbaresco vineyards in the Langhe region Gourmet delights Linger over your meal in Bra, the home of Slow Food, and savour the famous white truffle of Alba Mountain rides Zig-zag up the mountain pass from Sampeyre for spectacular views Valley pastures Stroll along the lush, wooded Valle Maira to the sound of sheep bells Timeless Saluzzo Take a tour of mellow Saluzzos historic core, through frescoed Renaissance houses and palazzi.

In the Land of the Truffle Piedmonts attractions are diverse. The vine-braided hills of the Langhe yield velvety and elegant wines such as Barolo and Barbaresco among Italys most celebrated while in the oak woods around Alba, keen-nosed hounds sni out valuable musky white trues.

Villages in the area are dotted with ne restaurants Bra was the birthplace of the Slow Food movement , which make the most of the bounty of hazelnut and chestnut groves, fruit orchards and mountain pastures. Castles and churches perch on hills; Occitan, the ancient Romance language of troubadors, is still spoken in the Alpine valleys; and the dramatic mountain scenery is never less than enthralling. Vari Ruffia la Colletta M. Bracco Ostana San Cavallermaggiore.

Indulge in gourmet food in the Colletto Robilante m so village or mountain restaurants s Ge. Entracque Vernante frescoes in the villages above n e. Matto ag. Number of days: 34, allowing for a day in the Langhe region and a day each for Valle Varaita and Valle Maira. Distance: Approx km 90 miles. Road conditions: Roads are well- surfaced, but not always numbered.

Rural routes are slow, winding and popular with motor bikers and cyclists Sommariva at weekends. Mountain passes can be. T Sanfr Castagnole Corneliano delle Lanze passing places. Late autumn sees fog throughout.

The T. Opening times: Shops tend to open i Dem. Monforte some closing on Monday morning. Museums vary; those in smaller places close in the weeks Fossano early part. Check ahead out of season. Magliano Shopping: Alba is full of shops selling Alpi truffles and truffle-infused products oil, pasta, pure as well as hazelnut Morozzo cakes and sweets.

Cuneo is famous Above Abandoned brick bridge on the route to Bra, see p43 Below Lofty mountain peaks of for chestnuts and Bra for its cheese. Outdoor enthusiasts can head for the pretty villages, valley greenery and mountain scenery of the Valle Varaita. Step Barbaresco, overlooking the Tanaro inside the cathedral to see the lovely river, makes a good introduction wooden choir stalls depicting still to the hilltop villages of the Langhe lifes and townscapes, inlaid in area, whose vineyards spill down the by Bernardino Fossati.

The main street, slopes in geometric patterns towards Via Vittorio Emanuele II, is lined with the rolling hills beyond. A stroll down shops selling truffles, oils, pastas, Via Torino reveals characteristics wines, cheeses and chocolates. Turn left at Gallo for Grinzane one of a string of medieval watch- Cavour signposted. Park by the castle. The pleasures of the table ubiquitous regional enoteca, housed were held in high regard even before in the former church of San Donato. Look for bagna Cascina Rein inexpensive cauda hot bath an olive oil dip A liberty-style villa with great views, set with anchovies and garlic, fritto misto among vineyards and orchards a short 2 Alba fried meats , bollito misto boiled drive east of Alba on Viale Cherasca.

Cuneo, Piemonte; meats , tajarin egg tagliatelle and Truffle hunts can be arranged. Alba rose to prominence in medieval agnolotti egg ravioli , the mountain Localit Altavilla 9, ; ; times, when brick towers cheese castelmagno, and the testicles www. During October and Cuneo, Piemonte; A short drive southwest of La Morra, November, swarms of chefs and food The magnificent 16th-century Castello its a good base for wine-country tours.

Via Rittane 7, Frazione Vergne, ; ; www. On its faade, he is portrayed 19th century. His bed, mayoral sash fine antiques and furnishings, a lush garden and pool. Good breakfast too. Via Roma , ; ; Below left Green rolling hills and vineyards around Barbaresco Below right The famous truffle www.

In November, the castle gains worldwide attention with its prestigious white truffle auction, when astronomical amounts of money sometimes in excess of , for a single lot change hands. More affordable for visitors are the fine wines and grappas for sale in the attached regional enoteca. Above left The exquisite dome of the Chiesa views across wine country. Theres Tremlett in exchange for a supply also a well-priced tasting menu. Enrico Crippa. On the ground floor, La The highlight of this diminutive town Piola offers less expensive, rustic fare.

King of Wines. The vineyard has This lively town its name coming from piazzaduomoalba. Through Slow Food movement. As a result, for hazelnut chocolate truffles. The tour ends in the tempio restaurants here. The tall church of fondue , and beef braised in Barolo. Theres an enoteca the words of its creator Bernardo closed Wed on hand for those who want to buy. Park in Piazza Martiri. Chiesa di SantAndrea open movement with a lovely courtyard daily is giddily Baroque, from its setting, this serves rabbit tajarin thin 5 La Morra statue-topped faade to its altar tagliatelle with butter and sage.

Via Mendicit 14, ; ; Cuneo, Piemonte; packed with candles. Antique toys www. Other options bars for tasting. Along with this, they also have language-neutral binaries that are part of the operating system. The user can also add an additional language with the help of DSIM and add a language pack. In the latest version, the languages are split into various components.

If you want to save some space, you can always that by not including a few language components in the image. Although it leads to a reduction in the size of the image, the user might not get a complete language experience.

In order to make sure that does not happen, make sure that while adding language components to the PC, always install the required components. While adding the images, the Window image should be the default image or it can also be the image that has been captured recently and installed. Doing this ensures that your package does not have anything left pending. The image can be in any language. A user can start with a Japanese language and later add the support of an English language.

In September , it was reported that Microsoft was triggering automatic downloads of Windows 10 installation files on all compatible Windows 7 or 8. Microsoft officially confirmed the change, claiming it was “an industry practice that reduces the time for installation and ensures device readiness.

Other critics argued that Microsoft should not have triggered any downloading of Windows 10 installation files without user consent. In October , Windows 10 began to appear as an “Optional” update on the Windows Update interface, but pre-selected for installation on some systems.

A Microsoft spokesperson said that this was a mistake, and that the download would no longer be pre-selected by default. In March , some users also alleged that their Windows 7 and 8.

It was concluded that these users may have unknowingly clicked the “Accept” prompt without full knowledge that this would begin the upgrade. On January 21, , Microsoft was sued in small claims court by a user whose computer had attempted to upgrade to Windows 10 without her consent shortly after the release of the operating system. The upgrade failed, and her computer was left in a broken state thereafter, which disrupted the ability to run her travel agency.

However, in May , Microsoft dropped the appeal and chose to pay the damages. Shortly after the suit was reported on by the Seattle Times , Microsoft confirmed it was updating the GWX software once again to add more explicit options for opting out of a free Windows 10 upgrade; [] [] [] the final notification was a full-screen pop-up window notifying users of the impending end of the free upgrade offer, and contained “Remind me later”, “Do not notify me again” and “Notify me three more times” as options.

In March , Microsoft announced that it would display notifications informing users on Windows 7 devices of the upcoming end of extended support for the platform, and direct users to a website urging them to upgrade to Windows 10 or purchase new hardware. This dialog will be similar to the previous Windows 10 upgrade prompts, but will not explicitly mention Windows Privacy advocates and other critics have expressed concern regarding Windows 10’s privacy policies and its collection and use of customer data.

Users can opt out from most of this data collection, [] [] but telemetry data for error reporting and usage is also sent to Microsoft, and this cannot be disabled on non-Enterprise editions of Windows Rock Paper Shotgun writer Alec Meer argued that Microsoft’s intent for this data collection lacked transparency, stating that “there is no world in which 45 pages of policy documents and opt-out settings split across 13 different settings screens and an external website constitutes ‘real transparency’.

The Russian government had passed a federal law requiring all online services to store the data of Russian users on servers within the country by September or be blocked. But Microsoft is held to a different standard than other companies”. The Microsoft Services agreement reads that the company’s online services may automatically “download software updates or configuration changes, including those that prevent you from accessing the Services, playing counterfeit games, or using unauthorized hardware peripheral devices.

In September , Microsoft hid the option to create a local account during a fresh installation if a PC is connected to the internet. This move was criticized by users who did not want to use an online Microsoft account. In late-July , Windows Defender began to classify modifications of the hosts file that block Microsoft telemetry servers as being a severe security risk.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. This is the latest accepted revision , reviewed on 20 December This article is about the operating system for personal computers. For the related now discontinued operating system for mobile devices, see Windows 10 Mobile. For the series of operating systems produced from to , see Windows 9x. Closed-source source-available through the Shared Source Initiative Some components free and open-source [1] [2] [3] [4].

List of languages. For the Windows versions produced from to , see Windows 9x. For the Windows version following Windows 8, see Windows 8. Main article: Features new to Windows See also: List of features removed in Windows Main article: List of typefaces included with Microsoft Windows.

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